Okay - Dave and I have been scouring the region for new climbs and have come up trumps! Over the last month or so we have been cleaning, bolting and leading some new routes. Now we are ready to reveal project X to the world!
A direct ascent of the slab between Flidington Rex and Big Bad Baboon is proposed. This will require a lot of cleaning to remove the surface layer of flakey rock on the slab.
2. BIG BAD BABOON (5c?) - climb slab immediately below first bolt as for Flidington Rex. At the horizontal break traverse rightwards to the undercut crack. Ascend the crack on its left side and move rightwards to gain the small tree. Continue past the tree to the corner and continue up the corner to top out.
D. Emanuel K. Davies 16/02/2008
Dave on Big Bad Baboon
Oh - just to throw down the gauntlet - there are 2 huge overhangs at this quarry that are beyond us at the moment but if anyone is climbing mid to high 7's then this could be a project worth exploring.
Kris on Fliddington Rex
If you're a climber in South Wales you'll know about the 'Gap' and if you know about the 'Gap' you'll know that it's not a nice place to climb this time of the year. It gets very little sun and holds onto the moisture seeping through the mountain making climbing all but impossible. It was on a visit to the 'Gap' in January that we spotted and decided to investigate this new location. Whilst standing on the 'GAP' you can see the tip of it on the opposite side of the valley, in the forest. This is the quarry:
Location: NGR-308400E 197900N
Directions: Take the A4054 from the village of Edwardsville, drive north into Mount Pleasant. Park on the south side of Mount Pleasant and walk back south along the main road. First you'll pass a small road which runs up the side of the forest. A little further on a dirt track enters the forest behind a lay by with fly-tipping. Follow this track past a gate as it rises steeply. The track continues into the base of the quarry after 400m.
Access: We are not aware of the current access status. Keep a low profile. The base of the quarry has been used for landfilling but this is capped with topsoil.
Unlike to 'Gap' this quarry recieves sunlight all day making it an ideal alternative to climbing the 'Gap'. The quarry is huge and has 2 tiers, unfortunatley much of the upper tier is too loose to climb but the lower tier has some excellent climbs. The following have been bolted and lead, they start to the far left of the quarry if you are face on:
1. FLIDINGTON REX (5b?) - climb slab immediately below first bolt. Continue to second bolt and trend leftwards to ascend the face to the left of the slab. Gain the second horizontal ledge and continue straight over the upper slab to top out.
K. Davies D. Emanuel 09/02/2008
K. Davies D. Emanuel 09/02/2008
A direct ascent of the slab between Flidington Rex and Big Bad Baboon is proposed. This will require a lot of cleaning to remove the surface layer of flakey rock on the slab.
2. BIG BAD BABOON (5c?) - climb slab immediately below first bolt as for Flidington Rex. At the horizontal break traverse rightwards to the undercut crack. Ascend the crack on its left side and move rightwards to gain the small tree. Continue past the tree to the corner and continue up the corner to top out.
D. Emanuel K. Davies 16/02/2008
3. ULURU (5c?) – Ascend the slab to the right of the arête to gain a deep rust pocket. Continue upwards into a corner. Lower-off third bolt as rock becomes brittle above this point. Route was ascended on removable bolts – permanent bolts will be placed shortlyD. Emanuel K. Davies 16/02/2008
Dave on Big Bad Baboon
Neither I or Dave claim to be route setting experts and the grades are what we believe the climbs are. Further routes are planned and the far left of the upper tier is solid enough to climb. We'll keep you posted.
Oh - just to throw down the gauntlet - there are 2 huge overhangs at this quarry that are beyond us at the moment but if anyone is climbing mid to high 7's then this could be a project worth exploring.We'll Keep you posted of new routes but feel free to try the quarry out for yourself this summer!
