Barland quarry is a hidden gem! Located just off the road between Bishopston & Kittle just before you reach the surf shop (not sure what its called) the entire face is pure slab pocked with erosion. Some places were smear heaven whilst others caused a few fried eggs as we slid off. There are numerous short jaunts to the left of the main face which we had a couple of hours slugging up with a couple of optimistic dynos thrown in.
The main climb shoots right up the centre where there is a short respite from a small ledge. From here a summit attempt can be mounted. Dave took the lead first but after cocking a leg onto the overhang lost his mojo and belayed down to recover! Luckily he'd placed some gear just above the overhang so when I launched myself up it I was relatively safe. Still, scary climb though, as there is little for the fingers to grip. We had an awesome time here anyway and would recommend it to middle of the range climbers, maybe a little advanced for complete beginners though. Mental!
Please note that no formal permission has been gained to enter the quarry so climbers should keep a low profile!
1 comment:
This is a great spot but please do not park anywhere near the entrance as there is a local busybody who causes trouble for climbers.
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